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Crowds dodged firecrackers at the A-Ma Temple before heading off to feast on Macanese salted cod balls in cosy European-style taverns.

Erstwhile local budget airline Viva Macau, alas, did not survive the initial stampede and folded its wings after a short stint in the low cost skies.

Soon came the fiery Dragon’s Treasure in the world's largest special effects projection dome, followed by a Michael Jackson museum, the 3.7m gallon aquatic spectacle House of Dancing Water and an onslaught of pro boxers and Biebsters.

Many have shunned Hong Kong in favour of Macau’s swanky venues, where dancing sirens, Dreamworks characters and digital mermaids join in the fun.

SEE ALSO Hongkong fun guide | Hong Kong shopping | Hong Kong business hotels | Beijing guide | Shanghai guide | Taipei spas | Asian casino hotels JUMP TO Getting to Macau | Vanishing heritage | Casino hotels review | Taipa, Cotai Strip casinos, Coloane resorts | Dining guide and Portuguese flavours | Macau nightlife and bars | Museums | Shopping | Historial Macau Walks | Hotel Contacts Glittering casino neon begins to loom over old Macau where life proceeds at a slower pace, winding through historic walks, churches, cobbled streets and past aromatic egg tart shops. ONCE upon a time, travellers flocked to Macau to nibble egg tarts on the crumbling steps of St Paul’s ruins and marvel at the entwined Chinese and Portuguese culture in the city’s historic quarter.

Latter day adventurers drove sputtering open-top 'Mokes' carting wailing kids from Macau to Taipa and Coloane across thin chicken-neck causeways that flooded in the monsoons.

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